Feeding your corn snake

Feeding your corn snake; everything your first snake needs you to do.

Okay, so you’ve spent months wanting one, ages searching for one, money buying one… but now, what to feed it? I’m going to assume that everyone reading this has done the proper research before-hand and so isn’t scratching their head at this point… mice. Or rats for that matter.

Snakes love rodents, it’s a simple fact. Now corn snakes, originating in North America would naturally prey on small mammals found in corn fields, such as shrews and voles, mice and rats… you get the point. For this article I’m going to assume you’ve bought a baby corn snake, but don’t worry I’ll help you out on adults later on.

So, the first question; how big should the mouse be?

Corn snakes are colubrids and so aren’t as good as swallowing large prey items like pythons are. As a general rule of thumb, corn snakes are fed a food item that is no bigger than one and a half times the width of its body at the fattest point. So if your snake is 1cm in girth in its midsection, then only feed it items that are smaller than 1.5cm in girth. Get it? Good. We usually start baby snakes off on pinkies. Pinkies are mice that are no older than 5 days (usually) and don’t yet have fur. You buy these frozen from the local pet shop or online, search for “pinkie mice”.

How do you know when to feed a snake?

Corn snakes like all snakes have a very slow metabolism, meaning that they can go a long time without food. However baby snakes should be fed more often, let’s say once every 3 days. If you have just got your snake home and set up in its vivarium, you must wait at least 24 hours before feeding. Snakes and other reptiles are prone to stress which can cause them to refuse food, throw up and even die, so I’m sure you’d agree that leaving them alone after a move is a good idea.

Snakes shed their skin; you can tell when they are about to as their eyes will turn a milky blue colour. After this colouration disappears shedding will occur in a few days. If you see the snake’s eyes turning blue, do not feed until the shed has happened. Don’t panic, the snake will be fine without food until then.

So to get this straight; get the snake home, wait 24 hours, check if its shedding, then it’s time to feed.

How do I feed my snake?

Well firstly, you cannot feed a snake anything frozen as it will just be sick, always. Simply plop a single pinkie into a glass of warm water for about 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, roll it in your fingers to ensure that it is completely soft throughout. If you have touched a mouse, it’s always a good idea to wash your hands before going near the snake (you don’t want a finger to be mistaken for lunch!) Remove your animal from its vivarium, and place it on a washable surface (when it gets bigger use a toy box). Using tweezers if you wish, offer the snake the defrosted pinkie head first (though this doesn’t really matter when they get bigger). The snake will smell the food and take it, but this may take time! Don’t touch the snake in any way with the food, you can lay it down and keep an eye if you wish.

What if my snakes not hungry?

Snakes will refuse food for a number of reasons; stress, if it has already eaten, and if it is about to shed. Please don’t get frustrated. The mouse you defrosted is now rubbish, don’t refreeze and try again in 3 days.

What do I do once the snake has finished its meal?

When the snake has finished eating, the mouse will be just less than half way down its body (you should see a small shape). You may then lift the snake and place it back into its cage (remember to wash your hands!) It’s important not to handle a snake for 24 hours after feeding, as this may cause unnecessary stress.

So what if I’ve bought an adult snake?

Buying an adult snake just means one thing; bigger mice. Take a look at this chart to find the approximate size of the mouse you should be feeding to your snake.

-When they're on single pinkies (2-3g), I feed every 3-5 days. (Snake = 4-15g)

-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 4-5 days. (Snake = 16-23g)

-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 24-30g)

-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 30-50g)

-Hoppers (9-12g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 51-90g)

-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)

-Adult (24-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+)

-Jumbo Adults (40-50g) every 7-x days (Snake = 400g+)

 One thing to note is that if your snake bites the mouse at the tail end, it is not a problem. Once the snake is sure the animal is dead, it will usually find the head anyway and eat from there.

I hope that this article on how to feed your corn snake has proven useful. Please subscribe and stay posted for more useful information!

Until next time.

Sam

Important things to consider when keeping reptiles

Hi Everyone,

I'd like to write a little about some things to consider if you're thinking about getting a pet reptile. It often occurs in the reptile hobby, that animals are bought on a whim either because they look nice or because the owner just wants to be different from everyone else. This I think is the biggest reptilian pitfall, their sheer desirability.

My top consideration for first time buyers is the amount of knowledge you must attain. Without sufficient knowledge, all areas of reptile keeping which rely on it's application will be neglected. Reptiles need you to know.

The problem I beleive, is that aqcuring sufficient knowledge is a lengthy process which ultimately hinders the event of getting your pet, and people want things now. However, knowledge is so vital that even underestimating it's importance can result in the death of an animal. Reptilians are nothing like mammals. The entire way that they function differs greatly from your average dog or hamster, and varies greatly even amongst the reptile family!

The secon most important thing to consider is time. Reptile are not cats, and cannot be left to their own devices. Your new Bearded Dragon, will not go to the garden to defecate, it will keep its cage clean. You must consider the average time it takes to maintain a healthy environment. I would estimate that on average you will spend 1 hour per week picking poo and spraying cages per animal you have. This is a safe estimate, and seems relatively low, but given the high number of reptiles for sale because of 'lack of time' I'd guess that it's something some people can't be bothered with.

Then, there's money. Reptiles require a constant heat source, that means they must have the option to warm themselves 24 hours a day. This means that your electricity bills will rise significantly the more animals you acquire. Reptiles need to be fed specialist food items, which is easy enough. However, it is important to consider the long term factors of feeding. For example, your bearded dragon might run out of dried food, calcium supplement and vitamin supplement at the same time as it requires a new heatbulb. These costs can be quite inconvenient when they occur, and over time will add up.

Finally, the Longevity and Size of your animal are important, along with its husbandry requirements. For example, a Nile Monitor Lizard will grow to around 6-7ft long, and can be very aggressive. It may also live for several decades, meaning that it will outlive your family dog, twice. This type of active animal will need a small bedroom as its enclosure, properly converted to suit its heat, lighting, humidity, and enrichment needs. On the contrary, a leopard gecko will grow to around 10", will eat dried food and crickets for it's entire life and will only require a 3ft x 2ft x 1.5ft terrarium. This brings me back to the importance of knowledge. You must undertake sufficient research before purchasing any reptile.

If you are considering getting a new reptile then please think about the areas I've just mentioned before hand. I strongly beleive that you will benefit more from your new animal if you fully understand and appreciate it.

Until next time.

Sam

Snake Bites!

I'm guessing that any non-keepers of reptiles may wonder what it's like to get bitten by one. Well I'd like to disclose a bit of info on the topic, and hopeuflly dismiss some rumours about the creatures I love.

I was first bitten around 6 months ago, I have kept a variety of creatures during my time in the hobby from harmless corn snakes, to a false water cobra (rear-fange and venomous from south america, for those who don't know). But for me, my first bite was from a Jungle Carpet Python (Morelia spilota cheynei). She was around 5'6" and was about to feed. Heres a picture:

For any one reading this who may be affraid of snakes, please do read on because I think I may be able to help you. Many people I know, like my mum, who are affraid of snakes seem to generalise them as ruthless baby killers. But why wouldn't you? They aren't exactly painted in good light after all.


Snakes bite for two reasons, a) they are hungry and b) they are scared/defending themselves. The former bite will be the one that will hurt the most, because the snake may hold on to you for some length of time. But, unless the snake in question is pushing 15-18ft then it is unlikely to be trying to eat you, but is trying to eat the finger you were wiggling at it. Snakes can eat large prey items, but not something as big as a person (unless of course we are talking about the giants). My point is, that your average household snake is not going to try and eat you; they know how small they are and they know that they can't fit you in. I was bitten because my hand smelled of rat, and I foolishly dipped it into the vivarium to retrieve a rat that I had dropped- heat + smell + motion = food.


The second kind of bite; the one when an animal is scared will rarely occur, and when it does you will have plenty of warning (usually). This bite will be a snap and release and the animal won't hold on, but it will hurt nonetheless. A snake essentially is a long tube of muscle, and its only defensive maneuver is it's bite. A snake cannot 'fight' per-se, and is pretty helpless in the wild against animals like honey badgers (with teeth and claws). If a snake bites you, it will be it's last line of defence and usually it will avoid this as it doesn't want to invest in the fight (which it will almost definately lose). So, before a snake bites you out of fear it will usually try to intimidate you first.


If you remember my story about Puglsy, you will know that I had to pin him down to remove layers of old skin. He wasn't happy about this, and he hissed continuously (and loudly) for around 15 minutes. All the while I was picking at his head. Eventually he'd had enough and tried to bite me but of course, I knew it was coming and avoided getting bitten.


The story that fear mongers most amongst non-keepers of snakes, is that ridiculous conundrum of misinterpreted information that thought up the 'my friends mate had a snake that measured him up in his sleep' story. Total nonsense. Here's why...


1. Snakes don't 'measure up' next to their prey- can you imagine a deer or a rat sitting still while a snake stretched out next to them for the best part of a night, umming and ahing? NO! Snakes are ambush predators, they will wait in a patch of dry leaves, and then strike. There is no time for measuring.


2. Snakes are ridiculously stupid. The only cognitive capability they have is remembering where the water is, their favourite hide, or their poop corner. Yes they can learn from their mistakes, but they aren't capable of 'measuring'. By what measure would a snake go on I might ask? ?Centimetres, metres? They have nothing to go on other than the length of their body (which is by no means the same size as their stomach). In this case a snake was have to stretch out fully (and a snake big enough to eat a human would be three times longer than the average bed, atleast), and then look over it's shoulder to see how big it was...


"hmm, little bit more..."
"I dunno, can't tell under this douvet, maybe if i go..." NO!


3. A snake that would be 'eyeing up' a human sized prey item would be pretty hungry. A 170lb meal would last the average giant burmese python around 1 year. While they are opportunistic feeders to one degree, you'd literally have to starve a snake for half a year or more before it would consider that.


Snake bites really aren't that bad. They don't strangle humans while they sleep, the don't actively want to kill you. This is why I don't understand irrational fear of snakes, it's all based on lack of knowledge or information. I'm terrified of spiders, so I did my research and now I own a 5" chilean rose tarantula which I'm perfectly comfortable around; because I understand it!


I hope if youve got a fear of snakes that you'll consider what I've said! Snakes are wonderful creatures to keep and to work with and can teach you a lot! Please contact me if you have any questions about snakes.


Until next time


Sam

The Repair of Puglsy

As reptile keepers, it is inevitable that we may experience problems with our animals. It’s not frequent, but reptiles can be afflicted by an array of ailments much like any other pet. I’d just like to share a story about a boa (Boa Contrictor Imperator.) I adopted a few months back, named Puglsy.

Puglsy came to me around halloween of 2011, he was around 5.8kg and about 2 years old from what I can tell. Much to Puglsy’s misfortune, he had several layers of built up skin, and the early signs of what I beleived to be an upper respiratory infection. The snake hadn’t eaten in over a month, which according to his previous owner was strange because he used to be a ready feeder.

When he came into my care, I had him set up in a 4ft x 3ft x 1.5ft custom vivarium. I used a 60W heat bulb on a basic electronic timer and thermostat set to 35C, and a heat mat rigged to an electronic timer set to 28C. I had created a hotter environment during daylight hours in order to create an artifitial fever. This ‘fever’ would help his body fight off the early respiratory infection, I hoped. In aid of his shedding problem, I massaged a shedease solution into his scales every other day, and increased his humidity using a larger water bowl and a daily misting. I continued this treatment thereafter.

I allowed puglsy a 10 day trial period, in which I monitored his condition for any advancements. I offered him food only once during this period, and observed him from a distance so as to limit his total stress exposure and allow him time to heal. Disappointingly, while his condition did not deteriorate further it also showed no signs of clearing up.

I had read about nebulization in plenty, and did consider it as my next option. However, the equipment was costly and would have kept him waiting several days until it was ready. I would have to take him to see a veterinarian if I were to get any results. I think the word ‘vet’ frightens many people in the reptile hobby because of a presupposed element of cost, I’d imagine. Seeing a vet is invaluable for many reasons, a) you get clear diagnosis, and it will set things straight, b) you can get sound advice on prevention and cure, c) you can get your animal treated, d) you know what to look for next time. I took my new snake for a 1 hour consultation at a vet in Lancashire which cost me a total of £46.51, including the prescribed medication.
The vet listened to my concerns, and my suggestions based on the information that I knew about the animal and made her decision. She confirmed my diagnosis of an Upper Respiratory Infection and prescribed ceftazidine at a rate of 20mg/kg via subcutaneous injection every 3 days. She showed me how to adminster the drug and sent me on my way, syringes in hand. Here’s how to do it.

I placed Pugly into a quilt cover, to ease his stress and to restrict his movement enough for me to work.The syringes must be kept frozen, and can be defrosted in a few moments in the palm of your hand. The vet gave me a vile of iodine solution, which I used to dab the prospective injection site before I removed the protective casing of the syringe. First, I found an area of loose skin (Oddly, I found this to be on the outside of a coiled area, at the bottom of the animal close to the subscales). I took a firm grasp of all the skin I could and pulled it away from the muscle, as if it were the canvas of a tent propped up by a tentpole. I then firmly pushed the syringe in between Puglsys scales up to about half way, and slowly injected the fluid. This process took me two attempts to get right, as the first time the injection site swelled dramatically (this causes no problems whatsoever). I then cleaned the site with iodine and placed the animal back into its enclosure.

Referring back to my futile attempts at removing Puglsy’s stuck shed, I now had to step my game up. Once I had finished the drug cycle (a total of 12 days) and allowed pugsly some time to himself, I decided that it was time to get him out of that skin. The reason I had left him in this uncomfortable state for so long is that I didn’t want to cause him any unecessary stress during his treatment. After all the skin was not as urgent as the treatment for his URI.

 

In order to remove his shed, I placed him in a room temp bath and shut the lid for about 1 hour, before I lifted the lid and allowed him to exit when he was ready. I did this every day for three days until I saw that his skin became more supple. On the forth day I allowed him to soak for three hours, before I took him out, and began to peel. Puglsy is a gentle creature, but I began to push my luck. I found that on particularly stubborn areas, the rough side of a washing up sponge did the trick, but I had to hold him steady in a fork like grip around his head. You can learn how to restrain a snake on youtube. I didn’t attempt to complete the job during one stint and allowed him 24 hours rest before I tried again. His skin eventually came off, and he looks far far better.

Do you remember I said that Pugsly wasn’t eating? I have tried to feed him every week since he arrived, monitoring his weight to be sure he was safe. Today I purchased a live medium rat, this is because I had tried Puglsy on frozen thawed in every manner and to no avail. I dropped the rat into my home built euthanization chamber, and prekilled the animal. I left Puglsy with his fresh warm dinner in peace for a few hours and came back to find that he’d eaten it!

I am proud to report that Puglsy the 2 year old, 6 ft and 5.75kg Boa Constrictor is back on his feet (or belly)! I hope that this story helps anyone else who is struggling with a sick animal. Please don’t hesitate in taking your pet to a vet, they aren’t as horrifically expensive as you might think. You can also get relatively cheap reptile insurance online which covers you for this sort of thing.

Until next time.

Sam

Hello World!

I’ve been meaning to start a blog for a while now, but I guess it’s one of those things I just didn’t get round to. But here I am nonetheless, writing a blog from my home in Lancashire. Fancy that!
I’m Sam and I’m interested in reptiles, and that’s the short of it. Technically I’m interested in all wildlife, but I talk about reptiles the most so that’s why I’m here. To tell you about myself I think would set this off on the right foot, so here goes. I’m 20 years old and I’m about to graduate from the University of Lancaster, hoorah! Since I was young I’ve been fascinated by wildlife, which I can honestly say is one of few things that have made it with me all the way. I’m one of those guys who can’t put his finger on what he wants to do. Of course I’ve dabbled in a few things along the way, but I’ve never set forth with that conviction you need to make something stick. I’ve realised over the past year or so that I should start doing more of the things I’m interested in, playing the field so to speak. And this is the exact reason why I’m starting this blog, I enjoy writing, and I enjoy learning about animals.
Realistically, I’m never going to be one of those guys who posts about everything they see and I would go so far as to say that I’m a blogger, or a writer for that matter. My blog is undoubtedly going to be one of thousands which will discuss the same topics, but this way I feel like my opinion is justified. That’s what matters really. So I’ll be trying this out for a few weeks, writing, and we’ll see how it goes.

Until next time

Sam